Here we go with another Heldrake update. I started work on the more delicate parts now that some new tools have arrived. Find out what I’ve been up to since the last post after the jump.
I started once more from the beginning of the booklet at the scary parts that have detailed and very fragile tendrils at the back of the “fuselage”. The parts were attached to the sprue at multiple points, including the tendrils, so it was a little challenging to separate the two without damaging the parts.
The booklet is very thorough, and for good reason. When I tried to attach the first few parts to the dry-fit fuselage before the proper step I had to fiddle for a good 2-3 minutes to realize my mistakes. So, for anyone picking up this kit, just go through the booklet if you don’t want nasty surprises.
I got back to cleaning up the pieces but my trusty craft knife couldn’t reach a lot of the recesses on the armor pieces, especially the signature spikes. It was also very frustrating to realize that once again, the cast had mold lines running along the ribbed parts of the tendrils. Luckily I acquired the emery boards just for this job and this was a great opportunity to try them out. I plan on doing a review on them in a later post along with the other tools I got, so stay tuned. Suffice to say, I got through without seriously damaging the model and buffed up the pieces.
Unfortunately upon close inspection of the kit’s pieces, I saw that a few smaller spikes were either bent, dulled or simply broken. Such damage happens especially for overseas shipments I suppose, and I simply do not have the time to ask GW for a change of parts (it might be a bit easier for UK residents). So I had to improvise to get them back to shape. I find that lightly buffing the sides of each spike allows the spikes to regain their point. Be careful however, do it too much and you create a new flat surface on the spike that looks terrible. Small, incremental steps are the key.
After the pieces on the first two pages were cleaned up, I opted for a dry fit. To my surprise, there are almost no visible join lines on the larger surfaces (which should happen more often on them) so I won’t have to work with green stuff for long. Although the pieces are numbered, some people would prefer to separate them and assemble them at a later time, painting, for example. For this reason GW created a few unique connection holes for pieces to see which part goes to what side. I thought this was quite nifty.
A few pictures showing the underside of the model:
And here is how it will look from above:
A few last pointers about the kit and Chaos units in general:
- Most models contain signature spikes. Be very careful about where you hold the model when doing dirty work like clipping, sanding or removing mold lines. You really don’t want to damage the models or get a nasty hole in your fingers.
- If possible, use a specialist clipper with thinner and longer scissor arms from a hobby store. I use a hardware version that is a bit thick for a lot of these parts so I lose time on trying to be careful.
- Give the models more than one “once-over”. Chaos units, especially the ones that have fusing parts, are riddled with mold lines on unseemly places. Give it some time or regret having glaring errors on your paint job.
See you on the next update, and let me know what you think on the comments section!