WIP: Mutalith Vortexbeast #1

Here we go, the first WIP entry in the Vortexbeast project. The spare time from the weekend and the past holiday proved to be very fruitful indeed: I have completely assembled the model I will put together, cleaned the spares from the sprues and even assembled alternate heads and pieces for the Slaughterbrute in case I opt for magnetizing the beast. Check out the progress on this kit after the jump.

In my last post I mentioned that the first few assemblies indicate the complexity of the design in this kit and I was correct. Putting together each leg takes no less than 3 pieces which beautifully interlock with each other when the sub-assemblies are put together. At many points in the assembly I thought some pieces were off but I am glad to report that there were no hassles whatsoever.

I started out with the hind legs as the manual shows.

Be advised that if you want this part to be a sub-assembly for priming/painting ease you’ll have to think of a way to hold the model. Attaching it to large cap or similar item will be difficult due to the weight. The thick plastic makes the pieces very sturdy and they feel nice in the hand during handling however without pinning this model (the feet are hollow mind you) I’m not sure about how one can paint this without touching it.

Moving on to the main body, I got a little off track since I want to have the chest and the forearms as a separate sub-assembly. Here’s the step by step of this with my comments:

Of course if you want to put together the legs and the chest be my guest however do note that will make some parts of the model very difficult to reach especially in the loin area.

This is where the assembly requires you to choose the variant. As the title shows, I’ll opt for the Vortexbeast. This means the head, the tail and the vortex will be the remaining sub-assemblies.

I moved on to a part I was looking forward to: the tentacles! There’s a lot of nicely sculpted detail and the ‘eavy Metal paint job is very nice and worth imitating. All the dripping slaver will lend well to application of Nurgle’s Rot and UHU for more ickyness.

On to the tail. Very straightforward, with just a little catch. There is a specific way the pieces come together and the only way to find out without a mess is a dry fit. Also, the connection to the hind legs creates a huge join line and not all surfaces align for the moment. Will need to rework the pieces it seems.

The added pieces have a specific pose, dry fit to determine shape.

The added pieces have a specific pose, dry fit to determine shape.

And now the most daunting task… the vortex. At first I was convinced that I need to paint all pieces separately. Then after a dry-fit I understood the need for putty. Since this is not a corporeal object, there can be no clipping, join line or mould line flaws, so I cleaned up everything and made the assembly. We’ll see if I’ll regret this during painting!

The leftover pieces are the optional spikes, Slaughterbrute head and back pieces as well as the underbelly spikes and arms. I made my “conversion” here and picked the Slaughterbrute’s little arms instead of the extra spikes. Here’s a tally of the remaining pieces.

And finally a few shots with the tacks. Had about 10-20 seconds before everything broke apart so, sorry for some weird angles.

My last-minute commentary:

  • Stick to the manual! I cannot stress this enough. Be careful with the numbered parts and try not to deviate from the plan unless you have a plan.
  • Use adhesives to your advantage. I used the brush model by Revell again, this time covering just the right amount on the pieces to prevent spill. When there was spill, it was to help cover a join line, but again, your mileage may vary.
  • If you’re opting for the regular base, think hard about pinning the model. The front parts are especially heavy with tentacles and the extended arm so you may want to support that left arm with a nice connection.
  • Be very careful around the vortex. It has multiple sides where mould lines run and for good painting effect you must have an even, soft surface.

Overall I’m very pleased with the design of this model. There’s little work to be done to correct join lines, compared with other GW kits I have put together. Also the piece retention is spectacular, almost everything inside can be used with magnets and additional spikes always find a home in Chaos kits. Not sure how this beast works on the battlefield or if it is effective but I recommend all enthusiasts to give it a try. I’m sure you’ll have at least as much fun as I did when putting it together.

Next up will be more WIP updates on a new box, so stay tuned for more Chaos goodies!



  1. Wow…what a complicated model! I’m not only impressed by your constant building quality, but the fact you are taking so many photos. Do you have a mount for your camera, or are you constantly stopping to snap some new photos? (curious as I’ve been looking at remotes, cause I keep forgetting to snap photos!)


    1. Interesting that you ask that because I too have a remote, a camera and a tripod… but don’t use any of them! My wife is the photographer in the family but it’s difficult to get her to follow my progress for long hours, so I snap my shots with the phone camera. Yes, it’s a little distracting, but anything for the readers!

      I’m planning on getting my own tutorials in this space with proper angles if possible, so using the technology will be important in the coming days it seems.


      1. I too have a remote, camera/tripod, but tend to only use that for the finalized shots (the ones I always take in front of the buildings). I use a point and shoot at the table, and have been trying to come up with a way where I can just hit a button and it snaps a shot as I’m working, or even better, just records video as I paint. (both for blog and for feedback on silly things I might be doing wrong).

        Man you have so many awesome models in the work! Really excited to see Roemers spin on them :). What a massive difference from the knight you just did!

        Liked by 1 person

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