WIP Update: 9/9/2015

It’s been a few weeks now at the Workshop without activity reports so let me get back to it with a mass of projects at hand. As I mentioned before I’m trying to get as many models painted as possible (given time) before the baby and for that I have made some progress with the existing batch as well as delve into some others. Hop in and see what I’ve been up to.

Mhara Gal Tainted Dreadnought

I had washed the resin pieces and prepared the sub-assemblies for the model for my review post. However I had this suspicion eating away at me that I had not thoroughly cleaned the pieces from the mould grease as the pieces felt a bit slippery in my hands. So I gave the pieces another soak in soap water for 30 min. for good measure and brushed gently on the surfaces to make sure. Afterwards I used Liquid Green Stuff to fill in the few gaps I’d seen on my once-over and that went without a hassle as well.

Finally, primed the model black in preparation for painting.

Even using multiple angles for spraying I got some blank spots which I’ll have to cover by brush once I start the main body especially. With so many details high and low, buckled armor pieces creating deep gouges on the model it’s almost impossible to cover with a can without covering the model with overspray. So I took the safe route and used thin and multiple coats to keep detail crisp and marked the missed spots with photographs.

Daemon Prince 

The first time I assembled this model it surprised me with the amount of join lines that formed on the wings, arms and the armored chest so I first fixed all of these with a quick application of LGS, followed by sanding with the Citadel files. I’m not sure why LGS is a bit unpopular on the internet but I have to say it saved my butt quite a few times already with gaps and join lines. Perhaps there are other superior products out there but the pot I’ve got is all I need for the moment.

I was looking for a cool idea for the base of this fella and was thinking of something occult or daemonic going on. Finally decided to go for a burning Chaos Star on the ground, carved into “stone” that will have a bit of a flame OSL on the model (if I can pull it off). My thanks to the guys at Eons of Battle for their splendid example which inspired this, be sure to check their splendid rendition of the Prince here.

Random Encounter!

Not the greatest of updates here but an update nonetheless. I started putting some paint on the base for Random Encounter. I’m planning to have grey rocks, blue glowing runes and foliage with a different hued stone block overall through some light glazes of brown, green and blue. Without my Eshin Grey base paint (I have no idea where it went) I had to apply multiple coats of Skavenblight Dinge to the rocks to begin with. This will be followed by light drybrushes of Dawnstone, Ulthuan Grey and Pallid Wych Flesh, toned down with a wash of Nuln Oil.

 

Imperial Guard Shadowsword

Back to the biggest model I’ve tackled so far. On the last update I had assembled most of the track units (without attaching the tracks) and put everything together with poster tack. After having a few horrifying moments of the model breaking down as I held it I decided to bring it to the point where further assembly would get in my brush’s way. I started with the sponson guns. I used some new products this time, playing around with different methods of fixing join lines. Based on some reviews on Mr. Cement I applied the glue to the spaces with the openings and sanded over the joins with fine sandpaper. Worked pretty well on the small parts and I didn’t lose much in terms of details as I usually do when filing or sanding minis.

Next up I assembled all the armor plates, the main chassis and the cannon together, fixing all small gaps with the above formula but leaving the larger gaps intact.

Here’s the multi-angle shot of the model with a twist:

Yesterday I picked up the Shadowsword once more to fill the large gaps. In my latest hobby purchases I also picked up some model filler from Humbrol, which I thought would be fitting for a large model like a tank instead of a figure. The stuff has its own thinning material apparently and I needed to work fast with it, made quite a mess in some spots but covered the majority of the gaps nonetheless. After all this is pretty much a learning model for the actual Chaos version of the tank. I’ll probe the model tonight to see if it’s ready for sanding but from what I did yesterday the filler along with the LGS has covered most of the ghastly gaps.

And that’s it for this week! If I get the spare time I’m planning to have a Trusty Tip Thursday post tomorrow on model filling, especially after yesterday’s experience. If it saves other modellers some hassle the merrier for me! Then there are some reviews piling up so let’s see if I can go on a posting spree this week!

Here is a parting shot for next time. Love resin models, especially if they have little to no miscasts and such superb detail!

They need clean-up and assembly but even now they looks pretty kickass!

They need clean-up and assembly but even now they look pretty kickass!

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6 comments

  1. Nice update Roemer! I find that the community dislikes certain things if they are deemed “easy”. Ignore those individuals. Use all the tools at your disposal to get the result you want as an artist, others be damned!

    Surprised you didn’t do a zenith spray on the dreadnought to get some blueprinting for the light sources!

    Suggestion on the cork base. Break up the edges a bit more. If it looks at all like cork, you’ll be heavily docked in painting points in a comp. You can use a filler on the top surface to make it smooth so it doesn’t have that corky texture.

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    1. Thanks Greg, I try to get the WIP drills down but not always do I have some solid content to churn a post. This time I think I delivered.
      I have to admit I am one of those people who sees an airbrushed model and then rolls eyes because I prefer the superior blending of well applied brushwork (completely personal view) but I do appreciate the power of the tool as well – same goes with anything that will make your painting enjoyable. If airbrushing is cheating then all modellers should be working in candlelight instead of their desk lamps.
      I did not spray the Mhara Gal with grey because 1. if it goes to the recesses with a slip (I’m clumsy, thought I don’t display it here!) it’s a pain to remove. 2. I already took some shots of the bare resin model from multiple sides with stark light from above as reference for the future. Damn I should have mentioned that.
      Great suggestion on the cork and now I’m going to rewind a little – I thought cork stepping over the base boundaries could make a neat effect. Scratch that idea!

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      1. I do think that the reason airbrush gets a bad wrap, is because it’s easy to spot. It’s not easy to spot if its extremely well done. You can match brush blending with it, it’s just a lot of work! I don’t discount anyone’s technique, because when you take from all of them, you get a very well rounded arsenal of choices to tackle any project! (plus the airbrush is waaaaaay waaaay waaay harder then most people give it credit for).

        Cork stepping over the base boundries is a great idea. Just make it look less like cork!

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      2. Good idea. Eventually the cork will be covered on the flat surfaces with either white glue or superglue to form a solid top, then covered a bit with sand at points. We’ll see how that goes.

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  2. I love that cork base idea – I’ve been thinking about doing another demon prince recently, so might have to steal that idea when I do! As always, looking forward to seeing where you take these things!

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